This dessert is traditional among Orthodox in Lebanon and Syria (and their American descendants). The explanation given in The Art of Syrian Cookery by Helen Corey is that the dough was traditionally wrapped in a cloth, “baptized” in a local fountain and then hung in a tree for three days, where it would develop a strain of wild yeast and rise! It would then be used as a source of yeast for baking throughout the new year.
I have never prepared these fritters with a fountain or a tree, so the explanation I always give my children is that the fritters remind us of baptism because they are deep fried—dipped in oil and changed. They then get dipped in sugar syrup, which also looks like a baptism.
The following recipes are paraphrased from Lebanese Cuisine by Annisa Helou.
Sugar Syrup
1.5 cups sugar
0.5 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon rose water
1 tablespoon orange blossom water [Using both flower waters is lovely, but if you only have one on hand, just double the quantity and use that one.]
Put sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, occasionally stirring. Leave to boil for 3 minutes then stir in flower waters and boil for a few more seconds. Take off heat and leave to cool. It must be completely cool before use in the next recipe. However, if you are not planning to use it the same day, it can be stored in the refrigerator in a glass container for up to two weeks. Let it warm back up to room temperature before using it.
Fritters
Full recipe sugar syrup
1 cup all purpose flour
1.25 cups yogurt
.25 teaspoon baking soda
vegetable oil for frying
Prepare the syrup, keep in the pan and have it on hand to drop the fritters into when they are ready.
Sift flour into a mixing bowl, then add yogurt and baking soda. Whisk until well blended and smooth, then cover and leave to rest for 45 minutes.
Fill a medium-sized frying pan with enough vegetable oil to deep fry the fritters and place over a medium heat. When the oil is hot (drop in a little batter, if the oil bubbles around it, it is ready), dip a dessert spoon in a little cool oil, fill it with batter and then drop the batter into the oil. Ideally, the fritters should be round, but this takes a fair bit of practice. Drop in as many fritters as can fit comfortably, stir to brown them evenly, until they become golden all over. Remove with a slotted spoon onto a double layer of paper towels before dropping in the syrup. Turn a few times in the syrup and remove onto a serving dish.
These fritters should be eaten right away, once they reach room temperature. They do not store well.
